Words and photography by Caroline Palmer
There are over two hundred Holy Wells situated in Cornwall, all named after the different Celtic saints, except for one; Jesus Well.
My walk took me through the landscape that surrounds Rock and Daymer Bay. As I followed a little track, a carpet of luminous buttercups, I heard the song of the Skylark and saw butterflies resting on shaded leaves. Here, amongst the golf course, enclosed by a wall, sits the sixth century covered spring.
The head is covered by a quaint sandstone surround and a slate roof. The small entrance of the well has a slate inscribed with the words, ‘JESUS WELL, JESUS SAITH UNTO HER, “GIVE ME TO DRINK”, Timor Domini Fons Vitae.’
Interestingly this is the only holy well dedicated to Jesus Christ and not a saint, despite St Enodoc reaching this shoreline.
It is said that Jesus came here with his uncle and blessed the water. A small medieval chapel once stood nearby and the healing virtues of the well became widely known. Pilgrims and holy people would make the treacherous journey to seek peace by healing their ailments and worship the Lord. In return, bronze and gold pins would be left.
Across the fields you can see the spire of St Enodoc Church, a grade 1 listed building nestled within a hedge with spectacular views of Brea Hill, Daymer Bay and Stepper Point. Wind-driven sand has formed banks that are almost level with the roof on two sides. Between the 16th century and mid-
19th century, it was virtually buried by the dunes, which the locals referred to as ‘Sinking Neddy’ or ‘Sinkinny Church’. By 1864 the building was unearthed and made stable and opened as a place of worship.
Remarkably, it is said that it lies upon the site of the cave where St Enodoc lived as a hermit, now the resting place of the inspired poet Sir John Betjeman.
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